A day trip to see the Brighton Pavilion interiors
These are the things that come to mind when I think of Brighton on a hot summer’s day in July: gaudy seaside shopfronts, teenagers buying 90’s t shirts from vintage shops, seagulls seeking prey for somebody’s cotton floss or pancakes. A street performer letting loose to Adele and a few brave souls actually swimming in the sea.
I came to Brighton primarily to visit the Pavilion, a wonder of eclectic 19th century architecture that was even more hodge-podge and culture blind than I expected. I approach the Pavilion through an ‘oriental’ gate flanked by tall pink hollyhocks and shade seekers beneath the trees. It’s the rare kind of bright and clear summer’s day that doesn’t come often enough in England and seems the perfect atmosphere for the Indian-inspired exterior of the Pavilion. The sun casts intricate shadows on the stone walls and for a moment it succeeds in transporting me elsewhere.
When I step into the Pavilion everything is quiet, cool and subdued. Despite Brighton being packed full of holiday makers today, very few of them seem to be here. I came because it was free entry with my National Art Pass, but otherwise it might not have crossed my mind to pay the entry fee. That said, it is absolutely worth it. The interior is spectacular, and entirely surprising.
Brighton Pavilion
1 hour from London Victoria | £17, free with National Art Pass
The Brighton Pavilion was the home of George IV and in 1815 was made over by John Nash to become even more indulgent, extravagant and ‘orientalised’. Britain’s colonialism at the time fed the desire for novelty architecture and the Indian influence on the Pavilion’s exterior is clear. What I wasn’t expecting, however, was the Chinese emphasis on the interior of the palace.
At times it is beautiful and at times feels like the most elaborate Chinese restaurant I have ever been in—the kind that is meant to seduce with its otherness. When I enter the dining room with its lotus-shaped chandeliers and tall golden fruit bowls supported by dancing figures I can easily imagine the Regency hedonism that would have taken place here.
I loved the colour stories happening in each room, particularly this orange and blue combination with the floral carpet. When I am finished touring the rooms, I step outside into the blinding daylight and back into the throng of people. It’s a stark contrast between the high-brow Pavilion and the deliberately (and charmingly) low-brow atmosphere on the pier. Apparently, George IV liked living in Brighton because he could easily go for dips in the sea, and I find it funny to imagine him doing that in this very place.
People-watching in Brighton is an excellent pastime and I try to conjure Martin Parr with my eye as I take a break on the beach before exploring the Pier. Brighton Pier is the main attraction, and rightfully so. It’s so quintessentially British seaside with the arcade games, snack stalls and rides. It’s absolutely packed on the day I visit, so I don’t bother waiting in queues for any of this, but I certainly see the appeal.
There’s plenty to do in Brighton otherwise, like wandering The Lanes with the tiny shops or checking out the vintage and independent shops on the streets near the station. For those visiting London from elsewhere, Brighton is an easy day trip on the train and takes about an hour to reach from London Victoria. For those like me who have lived in London for years and never considered the heritage offerings of Brighton, I’d highly recommend another look.
