An artsy 4 day itinerary in Lisbon
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Lisbon is one of the most intriguing cities I have been to. As one of the oldest cities in Europe, it has layers of history and links to global cultures. As a lover of architecture and design, Lisbon is aesthetically fascinating and offers so much for visitors.
4 days is a good amount of time to spend in Lisbon. It offers enough time to get to know the different neighbourhoods in the city, as well as visit Sintra on a day trip.
As an art historian and traveller, my 4 day Lisbon itinerary will focus on spectacular architectural sites, museums, design shops, and wonderful food.
Here’s my guide to spending 4 days in Lisbon.
Getting around Lisbon
Lisbon is very hilly, and therefore can be exhausting to walk! While still possible, I found it easier to get cabs across the city, which also helped to save a lot of time. It cost between 5-12 euros per Uber ride depending on how far we were travelling, so felt pretty worth it in the end.
There are plenty of public transport options as well, and if you get a Lisbon Card, transport will be included, so that could help save some money.
Lisbon’s famous trams are a beloved way to travel around the city, with Tram 28 in particular being a scenic and popular route.
Where to stay in Lisbon
There are so many wonderful options for design hotels or charming apartment stays in Lisbon. We decided to stay in a studio apartment in Alfama, and were so glad that we chose Lisbon’s ‘old town’ to stay in, because we got to become familiar with its small winding streets.
We stayed at Lisbon Best Choice Apartments, which was affordable and clean. They have different sizes of apartments available in Alfama. Having an apartment setup was super useful for the flexibility of having a kitchen. It was a little bit loud, but this is expected in Alfama, which is a lively neighbourhood. Book the apartments here.
Here are a few other places I considered booking, all with beautiful interior design:
Dear Lisbon - Palace Chiado Suites
With views over Alfama, the cathedral, castle, and harbor, this suite offers unbeatable vistas. The historic interiors are adorned with art, from classic portraits to modern pieces. A luxurious breakfast arrives each morning, and its central location makes exploring Lisbon easy. Book here.
Casa dell'Arte Club House
Perfect for art lovers, this boutique hotel in Alfama sits across from the Santa Clara Market. Its yellow and blue azulejos and modern artworks create a striking contrast, giving each room a unique Portuguese flair. Book here.
Torel Palace Lisbon
Set across three buildings, including two 19th-century palaces, Torel Palace has terraced gardens with city views and a stylish pool. Food lovers can indulge at the on-site Michelin-starred 2Monkeys restaurant, an intimate 12-seat culinary experience. Book here.
Palacio Ramalhete
This 18th-century palace embraces a traditional style, with azulejo-lined rooms and antique decor. The pool provides a refreshing escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Book here.
Day 1 in Lisbon: exploring Alfama
Alfama is Lisbon’s ‘old town’ of winding streets and hills. It’s easy and delightful to get lost in this area, and for me it gives the best impression of Lisbon. Visit the area on a Tuesday or Saturday to experience the flea market.
Breakfast
I don’t know if it’s a proper Portuguese thing to do or not, but eating a custard tart seems like a great way to start a day in Lisbon. Here are some great options I’ve tried for pasteis de nata in Alfama:
Casa São Miguel is a beautiful art nouveau style cafe selling pasteis de nata alongside many other traditional Portuguese treats.
Santo António sells a variety of pastries right at the base of the St George Castle.
Fiera de Ladra - Santa Clara flea market
The Fiera de Ladra is a flea market which runs on Tuesdays and Saturdays in Alfama, near the Pantheon, and it’s best to visit in the morning. The area is filled with stalls, from vintage tiles and jewellery to lots of tat. It does take some digging to find the gems, but it’s fun to have a wander around here and check out what’s on offer. I also really like the painted tiles on the wall near the market.
It extends quite far, and my favourite bit was the indoor market called Mercado de Santa Clara. The stalls running around the outside of it sell high-quality vintage goods, from hand-embroidery to books. Inside, more contemporary stalls sell jewellery, candles, soaps, and all sorts of nice presents. I got a beautiful pair of earrings inspired by azulejos here from a stall called Mila Design Studio.
Campo de Santa Clara Ceramicas
Right outside the Santa Clara market is a ceramics shop called Campo de Santa Clara Ceramicas. There are a lot of ceramics shops in Lisbon, and this was my favourite that we visited because it had the most unique wares and reasonable prices. The beautiful hand-crafted ceramics are packed perfectly by the staff and the two cups I bought came home easily with me. Do note that they do not accept card!
Explore Alfama
Alfama is spread across two hills, so there is a lot of uphill walking through small alleyways here! Though sometimes strenuous, it is immeasurably charming, and I suggest just wandering for a little while to get a feel for the area. This itinerary will take you back to the major viewpoints in the evening, so don’t stress about missing anything.
Some notable spots to explore in Alfama:
Lisbon Cathedral - Sé de Lisboa: a cathedral resembling a fortress in the romanesque style
S. Jorge Castle: an 11th century Moorish castle on top of Alfama’s hill, looking out over the city. Book a ticket and guide to the castle here.
São Vicente de Fora: Impressively imposing church filled with art and ornate chapels
National Pantheon: Baroque church and resting place for important national heroes
Museum of Decorative Arts: part house museum and display of lavish decorative arts from Lisbon’s history - guided tours only
Fado Museum: Museum dedicated to this famed Portuguese musical genre. You can also book a Fado performance and classic dinner.
Tram rides: the famous yellow trams run throughout the city, including through parts of Alfama. Tram 28 is the most well-known and spans the whole city, while 12 is a short route in Alfama that will likely be less busy.
Alfama tour: this is the most highly rated tour in Lisbon which includes tram rides and guided tours around Alfama. Alternatively, if you’re not up for walking Lisbon’s hills, this tour will get you around by tuk tuk, or this one will tour Lisbon via e-bike.
Clearly, there is an awful lot to see and do in Alfama and it could take days to fully explore it. At a push, it’s possible to at least see these sites from the exterior and enjoy a walk around this atmospheric neighbourhood.
Lunch at Taberna Sal Grosso
My favorite restaurant in Lisbon, Taberna Sal Grosso, is a must-visit in Alfama. This tiny place seats 22 and books up in advance. We dined here twice and enjoyed classic Portuguese dishes brimming with flavor.
The handwritten menu included cod croquettes, lamb brioche, peppercorn chicken, pork cheeks with tomato migas, broccolini, and mashed sweet potato—all outstanding. Though there are many fish options, we focused on meat.
Dessert was exceptional, especially the chocolate mousse with sea salt and olive oil.
Afternoon at the Tile Museum
The Tile Museum is a must-visit when in Lisbon, as the azulejos all around the city are so iconic to the city’s identity. The museum is not in Alfama, but not too far away — about 10 minutes in a cab. We took an Uber from Alfama for about 5-7 euros.
The museum chronicles the long history of azulejos in Portuguese art and architecture. Housed in a 16th c monastery, the historic architecture lends itself to the display of tiles across the ages.
The chapel is incredible ornate, covered with gilded ornamentation and featuring azulejos panels.
The displays of tiles in different eras was fascinating. I particularly enjoyed seeing how modern artists approached the making of azulejos and adapting the tradition for a new age.
The panoramic map of Lisbon made of tiles was impressive, and it was so fun to see places we recognised, and ones that had since been lost, on the map.
The cafe downstairs is covered in tiles and has a charming patio, so could be another good option for lunch on this day.
Evening viewpoints in Alfama
Praça Júlio de Castilho is a small park and home to one of my favourite viewpoints in Lisbon, Miradouro de Santa Luzia. The viewpoint is decorated with blue and white tiles (azulejos) and covered in blooming vines. The viewpoint looks out over the water, and is full of atmosphere in the evening. There was a fair crowd when we visited, as well as a singer performing and several artists selling their work. There is a little cafe here as well, to pick up a snack or drink if you feel like staying a while.
Just a step further down the street is Miradouro das Portas do Sol, with even more dramatic views as it looks out over the rest of Alafma.
Dinner in Alfama
There are so many great places to eat in Alfama. If you weren’t able to get into Taberna Sal Grosso for lunch, please try for dinner (and again, book ahead!) because it is my top recommendation in the area.
Some other excellent restaurants in Alfama:
O Velho Eurico: casual, classic Portuguese dishes
Prado: Chic, a bit upscale, and modern Portuguese cuisine
Aura Dim Sum: gorgeous Asian restaurant with a focus on dumplings - we loved it here
Day 2 in Lisbon: architecture in Belém
Belém is an area outside of the Lisbon centre that is home to some of the most amazing architectural wonders in the city. This area has historic ties to Portuguese sea voyages, and shows the influence of far-reaching travel in the 16th century. The day 2 itinerary will also take you to the trendy LX Factory with its amazing design shops.
Brunch in Lisbon
Lisbon is very much a brunchy city. There are countless amazing brunches out there, so choose one depending on which area you’re staying in. Here’s a few recommendations for brunch in Lisbon:
Heim Cafe
Neighbourhood Lisbon
Hello, Kristof
the mill
Dear Breakfast - Chiado
The Folks Сhiado
28 Restaurante
Augusto Lisboa
Marquise de Mobler
Head to the Jerónimos Monastery
The Jerónimos Monastery is one of the most popular destinations in Lisbon, and rightly so for its incredible architecture. Take a cab or the tram out to the monastery, which will take about 25/40 minutes depending on mode of transport.
The monastery is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture, a unique Portuguese style that combines late Gothic elements with Renaissance and Moorish influences. Built in the early 16th century, the monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Lisbon's most iconic landmarks. Its delicate stonework is awe-inspiring and an exceptionally beautiful sight. The Manueline style is characterised by its use of maritime motifs, such as ropes, anchors, and shells, which reflect Portugal's golden age of exploration.
For me, Jerónimos Monastery was one of the most spectacular architectural sites I have ever visited. The main area of the monastery visit is a large cloister containing intricate arches and columns on two storeys. I was struck by the variety of carving motifs, as each column and piece was completely unique from the others.
I’d suggest booking a ticket ahead, especially if visiting in high seasons. Even with a ticket pre-booked, it is likely that you will have to queue for at least a few minutes before entering the site.
Pre-book a ticket to Jerónimos Monastery here.
Pick up a pastel de nata at Pastéis de Belém
Pastéis de Belém is one of the oldest and most famous bakeries selling pastéis de nata. It was supposedly a recipe from the Jerónimos Monastery that trickled over to the bakery. There’s quite a queue here, but it’s possible to just buy a couple custard tarts to go, which come warm and packaged up with packets of cinnamon and sugar.
Marvel at the Belém Tower
Belém Tower is impressive and picturesque. Sitting just off the coast, with dramatic waves often crashing over it, the tower was built as a watchpoint and symbol of Portugal’s seafaring power in the 16th century. Like the monastery, it is also built in the eccentric Manueline style of architecture and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most iconic landmarks in Lisbon.
It is possible to go inside the tower, however we opted to just take in the views from the exterior. One of my favourite details is the rhinoceros carved beneath one of the watchtowers. This rhinoceros was a gift from Sultan Muzaffar Shah II during negotiations for a Portuguese fort in Diu, an island off India's northwest coast. Surviving a lengthy maritime journey, the rhinoceros arrived at the Tower in 1515, marking the first such animal to reach Europe since the Roman Empire era. This event symbolised Portugal's international connections and was immortalised by the German artist Albrecht Dürer in a print.
These small details of cultural contact really epitomise Lisbon to me.
Afternoon at the quirky LX Factory
The LX Factory is a cultural centre settled within a historic industrial site. This dynamic venue features an array of charming cafes, restaurants, trendy shops, and art galleries. It’s a lively spot full of gems to explore and a great place to get lunch — there are so many options you’ll see once you arrive.
After grabbing a bite to eat, explore the gorgeous design shops that fill LX Factory. Don’t miss the iconic bookstore Ler Devagar, a cavernous space filled with books from floor to ceiling. It has become a classic instagram spot over the years as well.
Dinner at the Timeout Market
After exploring LX Factory, grab another taxi to the Timeout Market which should be less than 15 minutes away. Timeout Market is a famous collection of Portuguese eateries, from fine dining to casual. There are lots of notable outposts here, for example from Chef Miguel Castro E Silva. Because there are so many options, it is good for a group of people who may each want to try something different.
I will so be honest with you though; when I visited the Timeout Market I became a bit overwhelmed and nothing in particular was speaking to me! So I decided to see what was nearby and stopped at Lupita, a tiny and gorgeous pizzeria that served up some of the best pizza I’ve ever had. I still think about the creamy mushroom pizza I got there.
Day 3: day trip to Sintra
Some realistic tips about visiting Sintra
There are so many guides to visiting Sintra online, which can offer a lot of advice, so I won’t belabour all the details. However, I had gotten myself quite anxious about the day trip because of how much I’d read about the crowds and the difficulty getting around the area. It turned out to be a lot easier and calmer than I’d expected — so don’t worry, a chill trip to Sintra is definitely possible, if you manage your expectations.
Visit in the off season. I know this is such an annoying tip if you happen to be travelling in the summer, but we visited in February which is in large part why we had such a great time. There were still plenty of people visiting, but it was super easy to get the bus to the sites we visited and there were no queues to get in.
Skip the tours. I was so close to booking a tour from Lisbon, because then you are driven around and given info at the sites. The tours don’t cover entry costs, so it becomes quite an expensive day. It was not that hard to get the bus, which takes a circular route through the hills of Sintra and was a lot cheaper. However, if you are visiting in high season and pressed for time, you can find tours that will take you to see the highlights, such as this highly-rated one.
Research the sites and prioritise 2-3 that you want to visit. 3 is ambitious, but possible. We decided to skip the most popular site, Pena Palace, and instead visit Montserrate and Quinta da Regaliera, which were conveniently on the same bus route.
Breakfast
It’s best to set off early for Sintra, especially if you are trying to fit in as much as possible and/or visiting during peak season. We packed breakfast pastries and lunch sandwiches in our bags so that we weren’t slowed down by food decisions on the day.
Train to Sintra
There are many regular trains to Sintra from Lisbon and it takes about an hour. Get to the station with enough time to wait in the queue and purchase a ticket (in our case this only took about 5 minutes). We left from Rossio, the central station, but you can also go from Orientale. The ticket was cheap, less than 5 euros.
Getting around Sintra
There are public bus routes which take you through the circuitous routes of Sintra. The winding roads of Sintra’s hills are one-way traffic, so plan the stops according to the bus route. After exiting the train station, turn right and head to the bus stops. The larger busses immediately outside the station go to Pena Palace. The smaller busses go to the quieter sites, and are just a bit further down. You can buy tickets on the bus.
434 bus: this is the big, main bus that tourists take up the hill to Pena Palace and many other sites in that area. It costs around 15 euros for a day pass across all busses, or about 5 each way.
435 bus: this is the smaller bus that goes to Montserrate, on a different route. The unlimited day pass ticket applies to this one as well. This is the route we took to both sites.
I found this site really helpful in researching the details of visiting Sintra.
Quinta da Regaliera
The mystical Quinta da Regaliera was one of my favourite stops on the entire Lisbon trip. It is not as old as it seems, and was built in the early 1900s by Carvalho Monteiro, a wealthy Brazilian businessman. The blend of architectural styles is fascinating here, as it has a gothic influence but a quirky Manueline style typical of Portuguese architecture.
The house is small but spectacular (mostly on the exterior) but the gardens are the main draw. Adorned with follies, the terraced gardens are full of hidden spots. The Initiation Well is the most well-known feature of the gardens, and is a deep spiral staircase which leads underground to a series of grottoes.
We had so much fun exploring the nooks and crannies of this magical place. It is a must-see when in Sintra.
It wasn’t too busy when we visited, but I know it definitely can be. If you’re not visiting in the middle of February like we did, it might be worth booking in advance!
Montserrate
Montserrate is a lesser-known site in Sintra, but one that I found intruiging to visit, so we decided to make a stop after Quinta da Regaliera. This was easy because the one-way bus route stopped here before heading back to town.
Montserrate is a 19th century house and estate bought by Sir Francis Cook, an English businessman. He turned the 16th C site into a palace which blends gothic, Indian, and Moorish architectural styles. The lush gardens surrounding the palace were designed by William Nevill and even include a waterfall.
Montserrate was interesting to explore but not nearly as magical as Quinta da Regaliera. I’d see it if you have time, but don’t make it a priority.
Sintra Town
The town of Sintra is many centuries old, and its winding small streets are fun to explore. We only visited for about an hour before heading back to the train, and felt that this was enough time to see it.
There is a famous pastry shop here called Casa Piriquita which was a charming 19th century ambiance. We got some delicious warm pastries here to walk around the town in, but it is worth sitting in the historic dining room as well.
Shopping and a late dinner in Lisbon
After heading back on a train to Lisbon, we explored the area around the train station which is home to several super charming shops.
All three of these shops are on the same block between R Garret and R Capelo:
Livreria Bertrand: tile-clad bookstore which is the oldest operating in the world according to Guinness World Records
A Vida Portuguesa: truly the most charming shop imaginable in which to buy Portuguese souvenirs. Filled with artisan goods that feel like treasures.
Cerâmicas na Linha: exceptionally good value ceramics which you can have shipped home for you.
We then embraced the Portuguese lifestyle and had a very late dinner (9pm) back in Alfama, but here are some good restaurants in the Chiado neighbourhood near the shops and station:
Rocco
Peixola
Taberna da Rua das Flores
O Trevo
Ofício
Day 4: Art and history
Brunch in Principe Real/Barrio Alto
Brunch is so good in Lisbon that it’s time for another round.
We had brunch at Marquise de Mobler, which was very cute and charming. There are some other fantastic options in the neighbourhood, some of which are repeats from my list earlier in the post.
Seagull Method
Magnolia Bistrot (also looks gorgeous for dinner)
JAC Brunch
Shopping
There are so many design shops with quirky finds around this area. Here’s an overview, and check out my post about the best shopping in Lisbon for more details.
EmbaiXada
New BoBo Lisboa (ridiculously expensive but fun to browse)
Solar Antiques
Amazingstore
Loja Real
Livraria da Travessa
Carmo Convent
Take a ten minute walk back towards the centre to arrive at Carmo Convent, a remarkable ruin and museum of art and artefacts. The original church was constructed in the 14th C, but an earthquake hit in 1755, leaving it and much of Lisbon damaged. The ruin now holds a number of fascinating objects from around the world in a picturesque setting.
It only takes about an hour or less to visit the museum, but there might be a bit of a queue outside to get a ticket.
The square it’s located in is lively, with cafes and buskers. It’s a nice place to hang out for a while.
Just around the corner is an historic house covered in tiles — have a peek! Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas | Rua Trindade.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum
Take a taxi to the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, north of the city centre. Housed in a striking modernist building, the museum itself is as much an attraction as its collection. The architecture embraces clean lines and an understated elegance that complements the lush surroundings, creating a tranquil space for viewing the art.
Inside, the museum's collection, though relatively small, is beautifully coherent and carefully curated. You'll find a unique blend of Eastern and Western art spanning over 4,000 years—everything from Egyptian antiquities to European decorative arts, Asian ceramics, and masterpieces by artists like Rembrandt and Monet. The intimate scale means you can truly appreciate each piece without feeling overwhelmed.
Don’t miss the surrounding gardens, designed with a Japanese sensibility that emphasizes natural beauty and calm. Pathways wind around serene ponds, shaded benches, and thoughtfully arranged plantings, providing a peaceful, almost meditative space.
I loved this museum - it was one of the best small museums I’ve ever visited. Even more excitingly, a modern addition is due to be finished in 2025.
Final dinner
Enjoy a final dinner in one of the restaurants recommended throughout the post. Even better if you can find a nice view to enjoy the city before heading home.
4 days in Lisbon
Lisbon is one of the most vibrant and exciting cities in Europe, but I felt that it was equally matched by a sense of authentic history and charm. It also didn’t feel chaotic, but rather calming and with a warmth of spirit.
Lisbon holds so many wonders for lovers of architecture and design. Much of it can be discovered in 4 days, but of course there is much more to unearth with more time in the city. Let me know your top spots in Lisbon for art and design lovers below.
Explore Lisbon in 4 days with this itinerary, featuring historic Alfama, Belém’s architectural icons, a day in Sintra, and Lisbon’s vibrant art and dining spots.