An art lover’s guide to Montparnasse, Paris

Montparnasse was once the centre of bohemian life in Paris, home to the likes of Picasso, Modigliani and Hemingway, who frequented its vibrant cafes and studios. Today, while the artists may have moved on, Montparnasse retains a certain charm and is full of significant cultural sites. After staying in the neighbourhood on my recent trip to Paris, I’m fully converted to the quiet but quirky area of Montparnasse. There are several fantastic small art museums to see here, as well as street markets full of artists and buzzy cafes and restaurants.

From the iconic La Coupole café to the peaceful Cimetière du Montparnasse where de Beauvoir and Baudelaire now rest, this neighbourhood is a quieter but still captivating corner of Paris. It’s not the loudest or flashiest part of Paris—but for those in the know, it’s a must.

Art and history of Montparnasse

Before sharing my favourite things to do in Montparnasse, I think it’s helpful to have an overview of the Montparnasse as an artistic hub in the early 20th century. Artists, writers and intellectuals based themselves in the neighbourhood from around 1910 onwards, creating a centre for creativity. Having an understanding of this makes exploring Montparnasse so much more exciting.

Moving from Montmartre to Montparnasse

In the late 19th century, Montmartre was the thriving center of the Parisian art scene, home to many iconic figures like Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and Suzanne Valadon and later Matisse and Picasso. However, by 1910, the artistic landscape began to shift. Artists sought new environments that reflected their evolving styles and ideas. Montmartre had been the 19th century hub of the la Belle Époque, or golden age of artistic Paris. Many 20th century artists with modern sensibilities began to look elsewhere, drawn to Montparnasse for its affordability and then later for its creative vitality. Montparnasse emerged as a hotspot for cubism, surrealism and abstract art, inviting experimentation and collaboration among a new generation of artists.

Key artists in Montparnasse

Montparnasse was home to an impressive roster of influential artists who shaped the course of modern art. Figures such as Amedeo Modigliani, Fernand Léger, Giacometti and Man Ray lived in or had studios in Montparnasse.

Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir were key intellectuals in Montparnasse, and are laid to rest together in the Montparnasse Cemetery. Hemingway and the Fitzgeralds spent time in the neighbourhood, and Gertrude Stein’s famous Salons were held not far away at 27 Rue de Fleurus.

Artist hangouts in Montparnasse

There are several cafés known for being hangouts for artists in Montparnasse. La Coupole is one of the most notable cafés, which became a favourite among artists like Alberto Giacometti, who famously sketched on tablecloths late into the night. The art deco spot was also frequented by Jean Cocteau, Joséphine Baker, Man Ray, and Georges Braque.

Another essential spot is La Rotonde, a favourite of Picasso, Modigliani , Gertrude Stein, and Hemingway, who mentions it in The Sun Also Rises.

Le Select and Le Dôme were also favourite haunts of modernists in the interwar period.

La Closerie des Lilas is significant as the place where a conflict between Tristan Tzara and André Breton effectively brought Dadaism to a close, leading to the emergence of the Surrealist movement.

Cultural sites in Montparnasse

Although it is a small geographic area, Montparnasse is packed with historic sites and fabulous small art museums. Montparnasse Cemetery is one of the primary locations, and is resting place to both Baudelaire and Brancusi amongst many others. The Zadkine Museum, Bourdelle Museum, Giacometti Foundation, and Cartier Foundation are all nearby, as are the spooky Paris Catacombs. I’ll give you the details about these spots, as well as my personal recommendations for charming streets and eateries in Montparnasse throughout the rest of this post.

Where to stay in Montparnasse

Many of the hotels in Montparnasse are in modern buildings and can be a little soulless compared to the charm of the Haussmann style hotels in other neighbourhoods. I stayed at the Drawing House recently, which ended up being the perfect combination of new and functional with charming and artistic.

Being called the Drawing House, you can imagine that art is integral here, and they collaborated with contemporary artists to create the interior design on each level, from the carpet design to the murals on the walls. I was quite partial to my room which was designed by Alexandre and Florentine Lamarche-Ovize.

The hotel was quiet and the rooms were spacious (this is already more than you can ask for at many Paris hotels!). Friendly staff are welcoming and helpful and a trendy restaurant is open throughout the day and for breakfast if you decide to include it in your stay. Room service is also available.

My favourite bit was the wellness centre in the basement, which has a small swimming pool with a beautiful mural and a comfy lounge area and sauna.

I’m in no way sponsored by Drawing House, but I loved my stay there, and if you’re interested in checking it out, I’ll get a commission when you follow the link below.

Drawing House - Paris Montparnasse

What to see in Montparnasse

Montparnasse Cemetery

Cimetière du Montparnasse was the first stop I made on my latest trip to Paris after travelling from the Eurostar at Gare du Nord to the Raspail Metro station (which itself is one of the iconic Guimard Art Nouveau designs). After walking through the cemetery for a few moments, it hit me that there must be notable historic individuals buried there, so I did a quick search to see who I could find.

I was able to find the grave of Charles Baudelaire near the corner of Avenue Ouest and Nord. A 19th century writer known for coining the term ‘modernity’, Baudelaire was highly influential on artists like Manet who sought to capture the fleeting nature of modern life in Paris.

Simone de Beauvoir and Jean Paul Sartre are laid to rest side by side near the North entrance to the cemetery. De Beauvoir’s ‘The Second Sex’ is an iconic feminist text and Sartre’s philosophical writings are crucial in the development of Existentialism. I was touched by the lipstick kisses on their grave and the small offerings of metro tickets.

Constantin Brancusi, the Romanian sculptor who literally walked to Paris in the early 20th century is also buried here. The modernist reduction of form that characterised his sculptures was hugely influential for later mid-century modern artists, and Montparnasse Cemetery is actually home to one of his works which serves as a tragic memorial to Tatiana Rachewskaia. It is currently hidden inside a box on top of her grave, as her descendants fight for the right to sell it — but France has recently ruled that it cannot be moved.

The notable graves in the Cemetery are pinned on Google Maps, so you should be able to pinpoint how to find them. Here’s a screenshot showing the locations of the graves I was able to visit:

Bourdelle Museum

The Bourdelle Museum is one of my very favourite places in all of Paris. The studio turned museum displays the dynamic and robust sculptures and collections of the artist who worked between the 19th-20th centuries.

Initially starting his artistic journey as a painter, Bourdelle honed his craft under the tutelage of Auguste Rodin, which laid the foundation for his distinctive style. His work is characterized by bold forms and dynamic compositions that delve into themes of mythology and the human condition.

In addition to his artistic contributions, Bourdelle was also a passionate educator at the Académie de la Grande Chaumière, where he inspired the next generation of artists. You can visit the academy still, which is near the cemetery in Montparnasse.

The studio rooms are my favourite spots in the Bourdelle Museum, with their soft light and atmospheric collections of Bourdelle’s work alongside his prized collections. His ‘Penelope’ is one his most charming works in my opinion, with the soft and curving form of Penelope as she waits for Odysseus with her hand resting on her chin.

The best thing about the Bourdelle Museum is that it is free as part of the Museums of the City of Paris.

Zadkine Museum

The Zadkine Museum is a hidden gem in Paris that beautifully showcases the works of the Russian-born sculptor Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967). This museum is housed in a quaint studio in Montparnasse where Zadkine created many of his masterpieces.

Zadkine, who gained recognition for his abstract forms and affinity for natural themes, often drew inspiration from his surroundings and the human experience. His sculptures, marked by fluid lines and an almost ethereal quality, invite visitors to reflect on the relationship between humanity and nature.

One of my favorite aspects of the Zadkine Museum is its serene garden, where some of his sculptures are displayed amidst lush greenery. This tranquil setting provides a perfect backdrop for contemplation and appreciation of Zadkine's art.

Giacometti Foundation

The Giacometti Foundation is a captivating space that honors the life and work of the Swiss sculptor and painter Alberto Giacometti. The foundation resides in the artist’s former studio, allowing visitors to step into the very environment where Giacometti produced his most iconic pieces.

Renowned for his distinctive elongated figures and textured surfaces, Giacometti's work explores themes of existentialism and the human condition. His sculptures, often depicting solitary figures, reflect a deep sense of isolation and introspection, inviting viewers to engage with their profound emotional resonance. The foundation does not hold many of his sculptures, but rather gives an insight into his working space and acts as a research/exhibition space to engage his work with other artists.

The foundation offers a collection of his drawings, paintings, and photographs, providing a comprehensive overview of his artistic evolution. The intimate setting of the studio enhances the experience, as you can feel the spirit of Giacometti's creative process in every corner.

Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art

The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art is dedicated to contemporary art and design. It features a striking glass-and-steel building designed by Jean Nouvel, which beautifully integrates with the surrounding gardens.

The foundation hosts a diverse range of temporary exhibitions, showcasing both emerging and established artists across various mediums. Noteworthy exhibitions have included works by Pablo Picasso, Takashi Murakami, and Richard Serra.

Académie de la Grande Chaumière

The Académie de la Grande Chaumière is a historic art school that has played a significant role in the world of art since its founding in 1900. The school offers public courses in painting, drawing, and sculpture, often featuring live models for figure drawing sessions.

Historically, the Académie became a hub for artists in Montparnasse, such as Modigliani, Chagall, and Soutine. Today, visitors can immerse themselves in the ambience that once inspired legendary artists.

Montparnasse Tower

Montparnasse Tower is 210 metres tall, offering one of the best panoramic views of Paris and primary attraction in the area. Not necessarily a beautiful cultural destination, but the bland architecture at least allows for a view toward the Eiffel Tower.

Rue de la Gaîté

Rue de la Gaîté was one of my favourite streets I found in Montparnasse. This charming street is lined with cafes, bars and theatres such as the Théâtre de la Gaîté. A spot for nightlife and avant-garde theatre, it’s a lively hotspot in Montparnasse.

Artist’s Market - Marché de la Création Montparnasse

This market is held on Sundays on Boulevard Edgar Quinet. Artists from the area sell their work in a lively market surrounded by buzzing cafes. I was surprised how many artists were here and at the array of fantastic art on offer. It certainly adds to the artistic heritage of Montparnasse.

Keep an eye out for the Place Joséphine Baker sign commemorating the iconic dancer.

Where to eat in Montparnasse

Sand

A tiny sandwich shop selling lovingly handmade baguettes and beautiful patisserie. Very friendly service. They will sell out early in the day.

Joe’s Dough

A tiny kiosk on the side of Cafe de la Place that happens to make the best sandwich I’ve had in Paris and one of my top 5 ever. Bacon, basil, mozzerella, cranberries, figs, tomato, salt, honey, absolutely sublime.

Cafe Jeanette

Cute yellow cafe just across from the station offering great breakfast options.

Bouillon Chartier

One of the famous and affordable Paris bouillons with classic dishes.

Creperie de Josselin

There are lots of Breton creperies in Montparnasse, and this is one of the best.

La Coupole

The famous artist hangout is still a buzzy art deco restaurant!

Food Society Paris

Casual indoor food market.

Juni Armenian Bakery

Freshly baked Armenian breads and wraps.

Les Freres Blavette

A solid bakery.

An art lover’s thoughts on Montparnasse

What I love about Montparnasse as an art destination is the layered, lived-in feel of it. It’s not just about the big-name museums or iconic pieces but the energy that still lingers from the artists who made this neighborhood their home. You can step into Bourdelle’s or Zadkine’s studios and feel like you’re seeing art in the place where it was born, not just displayed.

Montparnasse has a way of blending the past with the present in a very real, tangible way—between the vibrant market, historic cafés, and streets that have stories to tell, it always feels like there’s more to uncover. Not every street is charming or historic, but the new alongside the old shows how this area of Paris continues to be a vital home for Parisians.

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